My travels - Norway on Bike 1997 - 15.day

17.August 1997

With glued eyes, but good rested I woke up. We are in Czech republic. Boundaries near Dubi i didn't registered today. Before afternoon we crossed boundaries to Slovakia in Teplice. We continued to Trencin, where we (Gabike, Lucia and me) had to leave our group. We were sad, because we knew that we have to divide in short time. We changed our address cards and managed our next meeting. It was not a big problem to find right term for 7 people. We wanted to change photos and Jaro promised to make video tape for everyone. In Trencin parents of Gabika welcomed us with home cakes. It took some time to unload our luggage. After our leave, car continued to Zvolen. We loaded our luggage to Gabika's car. Then we fastened our bikes. We had experiences with that from our way to Zilina and now we know how to fasten them well. We continued to Bratislava. Gabika took me to my house to Stupava. There I unpacked my luggage, took shower and went to sleep.

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Aftermath

How we promised we met together more times. We also visited together KGB restaurant. Only our meeting in one bed (See previous posts) we didn't manage yet. Jarko made excellent video. Always when I am looking on it, I am back in Norway. I will return there, I know this. I believe that also another members of our group feel it similar. Once...

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My travels - Norway on Bike 1997 - 14.day

16.August 1997

At morning in Trelleborg we woke up sooner, to catch our ferry. We are going by ferry to Sassnitz. Weather is beautiful. We discovered a palm tree in harbour. It suits to this tropic weather and we made a leave photo using palm as background from Scandinavian Peninsula. We took aboard. We had 6 hours until we land in Sassnitz. On ship we wanted to shower, but after finding info that shower cost 10 DM, we managed to find other solution. Girls showered together in one cabin. I washed myself straight in washroom, dressed only into my scanties. Jaro and Peter used a mug to shower them in shower cabin.

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City Sassnitz is not as smooth as Rostock. Everywhere we saw described blocks of flats. It looks like we were back from fairy tale to reality. In local supermarket we bought some cheap yogurts and other meal. I ate my yogurt on near filling station. But in next hour we had to stop on panelled highway, and I unfolded my yogurt in near forest. We continued, and after 5 hours was our car going out of fuel. And through last 100 km there wasn't any filling station. Without fuel we stopped on side of highway. Girls tried to stop some cars, and after short time they stopped some German man on Peugeot with diesel engine. He gave us 5 litres of oil fuel in exchange for chocolate and some money. Jaro spent some time to start car engine. But at last he started and we continued. Shortly we found a filling station. After scooping up we continued at home. We only prepared a dinner on bay. After dinner we got to car, to find best places for sleeping. Gabika chose place on luggage at the back, Lucia on back seat, and I placed myself in gap between back and middle seats. Olga and Hela also found their places for sleeping. Slowly I fell to sleep, while our car continued to our way at home.

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My travels - Norway on Bike 1997 - 13.day

15.August 1997

Only at morning I inquired that rest of group stay to sleep on a beach. I feel disappointed, because I went to sleep to tent so early. On other side I had dry sleeping bag unlike others. We continue today to Copenhagen. It was not in plans to visit this city but we spared some time. Our car stay in Helsingborg and we together with our bikes came over to Danish side. It took some time to find necessary money on ferry tickets, but after some mutual loans we found enough money. Ferry was full of people from Sweden with crates full of empty bottles. We didn't understand why. After a half hour we arrived on second side to Helsingør. There we sat on our bikes and went with good rate to Copenhagen. It was about 50 km from Helsingør, but we were good rested and we know that we do it without problems. Only weather was our enemy. It was too hot, and sometimes it was big problem to find place with shadow.

When we arrived to Copenhagen, we decided to visit The Little Mermaid statue. Jaro declared that he knows place where is the statue situated. But his orientation sense failed and we found statue only after many bad attempts. We visited also other places in city. But in this hot weather we decided to find some shadow in local park. There we rested lying on a grass. Before nightfall we returned back to Helsingør. We were so surprised, because only we were sober from all passengers on ferry. Others changed their empty bottles to full bottles with beer and they were all drunk. Prohibition in Sweden is good business for ferry operators in Sweden. In Helsingborg we fastened all bikes on top of van, and we continued to Trelleborg. There we arrived at night. We built our tents in camping where we spend night before 2 weeks. We slowly evaluated our holiday. We all were dedicated and we didn't want to return back. But this our last wish was not redeemable. It was our last night on the Scandinavian Peninsula, that was so hospitable to us.

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My travels - Norway on Bike 1997 - 12.day

14.August 1997

Our morning is exceptional. Local farmer woke up us with a big noise. He was owner of land, where we have built our tents. Jaro, natural diplomat, solved this problem in short time. He shake hands with farmer, and he propitiated. We promised to return all to previous state and farmer was satisfied. He left us with a smile. Shaking hands is main rule how to propitiate nervous opponents. We packed all tents and made order as we promised. We continue to Sweden. Our target is Göteborg. In time when we visited this city, was also Michael Jackson there. At first time we thought that we have seen him in cabriolet, but later we were inquired that in the city was lot of doublers. I am not sure if I have ever seen Michael Jackson in Göteborg. Peter argued that it had to be Jackson, because he had also guards, but I think, that it is not important. We visited a harbour and drink some coffee and we continue.

All our wishes were fulfilled. It remains only last one. We want to try to swim in sea. It looks like a difficult wish, but Jaro want to fulfill it. It is not easy to find right camping place near of sea. At last we found nice camping near of Helsingborg. The excellent camping place with sand beach. Temperature of North sea 25 degree of Celsius. What else we had to wish? We built our tents, made some meal and in short time we swimmed in sea watter. Especially Olga was satisfied. She spent in water more than hour, swimming in long distance from beach. In free time we bury Gabika into sand grave. We make also temporary ceremony. At last we released her and we helped her to leave her temporary sand grave. It was too late, I was tired and I go to sleep.

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My travels - Norway on Bike 1997 - 11.day

13.August 1997

We wake up, wash, eat some meal, pack everything and we continue today to Oslo. It is a quick change from wilderness to a big city full of people. But Oslo at last captured us. At the beginning we visited Museum of Vikings. It is a building in shape of cross. In each side there is one viking ship. When we realized that in this small ships Vikings discovered a lot of far places, it looks like impossible. Then we visited museums FRAM and Kon-Tiki. In Fram you can see a ship of Roald Amudsen. It is also possible to visit this ship. When you are in underdeck, you can hear a recording of yelling cold wind sound. It is a really realistic experience of capturing South Pole. We were also informed about struggle between Scott and Amudsen. In Kon-Tiki we moved to warmer area. There is also ship Ra II, that was made from papyrus by Thor Heyerdahl group of fun of history. This group of scientists also sail on this ship across the Atlantic from Morocco.

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I was really delighted at Vigeland Park. There is 197 sculptures from this Norway artist. In middle of park is "Monument" sculpture, near of it is "Circle of life" and on second site is "Fountain". I am not big fun of art, but these sculptures are really nice. Our next surprise was visit of Olympic ski jumping ramp Holmenkolen. Landing place was filled with water and you can swim there. It was hot and we took advantage of this offer. In short time we wear our swimsuits and we dive into water of this temporary pool. At last we made individual program and we split. After short city examination we meet together in local Woodstock pub. After some drink and cake we go to our car and continue to Sweden. Today we also sleep in wilderness, on small meadow near of forest. To go there with car we must move 2 stems from pathway. We built our tents and ate something. It is a beautiful clear night. We lie down on our sleeping underlays and summarize our holiday in Norway. It was fulfilled everything what we expected. We saw about twenty of falling stars, and nobody want to go to sleep. At last we go to sleep, when it start to fall moisture.

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My travels - Norway on Bike 1997 - 10.day

12.August 1997

We are in Flam. We wake up early at morning. It is necessary to catch train to Myrdal. From there it is possible to return on bike or by foot. At last only Gabika, Olga and Peter choose bike. Peter also wants to go on bike to Myrdal. We others prefer going back by foot. In near train station we buy our train tickets. We have also bikes for Gabika and Olga. When we are near of train, a local trainman without words take Olga's bike. Olga is surprised but we understand soon, that he is is responsible for giving bikes to special train wagon. Soon he takes also bike from Gabika and we go into train. There is clean everywhere. In short time train leaves Flam. We are going up, and from window is a beautiful view. On halfway between 2 tunnels train stops. Doors are opening, and voice from speaker invite us outside, to make some photos. And there is really beautiful waterfall. We are a side of falling water and fog from it is around us. After making some photos we continue.

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We are in Myrdal in short time. Train continues to Bergen but we finish here. We bought some baked specialties in local buffet and we ate them together with coffee. Peter arrived, when we finished. We split on bikers and tourists, and we go back to Flam. First tourists, then bikers, but bikers outrun us in a short time. Gabika was concentrated on her way, and after Jaro's attempt to stop her, she scored him. There is a lot of stones on way, and they must be very careful to avoid them. After some speaking, we make photo of all us, and we split second time. Way down is really nice and there is lot of excellent views. Before one bridge we must go through a special gate. It is not so easy, because there is a lot of goats and sheep. They don't want free their places near a gate. We must move them with gate doors and slowly we cross that place. We see a lot of waterfalls. I am together with Jaro a little bit before Lucia and Hela. Before us is German mam with 2 daughters and they are singing. They are really good singers and we approach to them, to hear them better. In short time Lucia and Hela join to us. We must explain them, that we follow German women because of their beautiful voices and not because of their beauty. They don't believe us. Jaro start to recite speech from well known Slovak poem "Marina" from "Andrej Sladkovic" and they forgive us. Hela and Lucia together with me were surprised. We don't know that Jaro is a such good presenter. In Flam we make photo of beautiful wooden church. Nothing excessive, only small church with simple ornaments and excellent feeling. Camping we reach on late afternoon. Bikers were waiting us. We packed all tents and continue through "Gold Way". It is really good mood in car we together sing songs from tape recorder. It won hit from Slovak singers with name "We all meet in KGB and in one bed". Today we have problem to find place for sleeping. At last we stay on rest place near of route. Dinner is also not very good, Peter gave in it a lot of salt. But he retrieves it with special bonus, oatmeal. We are sitting on bench, speaking about everything and watching meteoric shower. Our tents are built on stony pathway, near of rest place. We go to sleep in our standard time, long time after midnight.

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My travels - Norway on Bike 1997 - 9.day

11.August 1997

Morning is beautiful again. Peter promised us excellent downhill run. First part of way we spend in car, next part on bikes. Gabika, Lucia and I decided to use our new crash helmets. But before we go down we must go up to top of the hill. We have enough time, and from my previous experience from Trollstiegen, I am biking slowly without problem and in good mood. From time to time we eat blackberries from near forest. There are thousands of them. On parking place near of top, I lost small part of my glasses. Only with effort of whole group and with help of Hela I finally found it. On the top of Mel we rest next time. Peter make photos of Gabika and Lucia for next year travel magazine. When I offer myself as model I was declined. I really don't know why :-). We eat some cakes, check our helmets and brakes, and we are going down. Fiiiiiiiiiii, this is biking for me, go down without effort. But in one turning I have a good luck. I started to brake so late, and I found out that there is also some sand on road and I finished on ground only a little bit from low wall, that separate round from deep gap. After this experience I was really scary. Also Lucia biking beyond me was scared when she see my fall down. From this time I go down more slowly. After going down we continue to Sognefjord. In cold air it smells sea water. Now I feel in my legs the way to top of Mel. On next uphills I use only light gearings. We group altogether in port.

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From there we use ferry to Vangsnes. Here some from us with enough energy, go to visit a giant sculpture of William the Conqueror. I prefer to stay in port and buy some ice cream. When others returned I eat some big yellow berries, that they gathered near of sculpture. Today it was our last biking day. We attach our bikes into bike holders and we continue by car to Flam. Main topic of our dialog turned to reindeers. We are on north, but we still didn't see one. But today it was our happy day. We find nomad reindeer's farm near of our way. And before this farm was attached an alive reindeer. We make some photos of course. It looks not very happy. Another reindeers feed in near fence. Inside the big tent before fence it was possible to buy everything related to reindeers. Furs, antlers, souvenirs and special meals, everything from reindeers. Here we realised that reindeers are here for meal and other products. Peter at last bought sausage from reindeer. We eat it on next parking even though our frustration from bad life of these animals.

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We are going to Flam with help of 12 km long tunnel. Our driver Jaro, always very communicative, is so quiet. We are discussing, how to help people with broken cars if they stay in tunnel. A little bit after tunnel our car make strange noise, engine stopped and our car is going slowly down to near camping without engine. Now Jaro confess that we are without gas. He was very happy that we didn't stop in tunnel. In camping we make necessary activities to improve our appearance after 3 days in wildlife. I showered myself in hot water, and it was fantastic feeling to feel like civilized person once again. I wanted also wash my clothes, but I give it up, and I help with preparing meal rather. In Slovak language flam means to spend time with drinking in pubs, and we decided to follow name of this place. We found some local restaurant in near port. But we didn't drink so much, because after studying drinking menu we recognized, that we can afford only one bottle of good red wine. We ordered also 7 glasses and we share our wine between us. We discussed about an expensive alcohol in this country. While we return to our camping Peter give us instructions to tomorrow. It is time to go sleep.

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My travels - Norway on Bike 1997 - 8.day

10.August 1997

At morning are sky blue without clouds, and everything looks better than yesterday. Only English fisherman has a problem to go cross pathway with our tents and he is speaking something under his mustache. Temperature is increasing, we pack all tents and continue. I feel more better and i want to bike today. One day without biking helped me very much. Peter give us headstart, he will come in us later. We all feel like contestants and we pedal in excellent temp. But we missed right turning and we must return back. Lucia has problem with leaving her bike and she finished in ditch near of route. Fortunately without any wounds. We found right turning in short time, but Peter is still not there. We must think what to do. We don't want to make some panic and we decided to stay near of some lake. Jaro is going to look after Peter with car. After a hour he left together with Peter. Peter at first made only some jokes from this story, but he looks happy now that we are all together and nobody lost. Temperature reaches 30 degree of Celsius and it is really hot. We thought about Corsica before, but it looks that here in Norway is also hot enough. We all continue. I have my good day and I bike without problem on head before others. From time to time I stop to eat some blackberries. After short uprise we turn to lake in mountains. It will be our camping place for today. Short time after our arriwal, some group from Polland arrived on motorbikes. They also want to stay here. We were afraid that we will not sleep well. But later it looks, that more problems with sleeping have they. We built tents and prepare some meal. It is late but ther is still enough light and we decided to make some walk. We bike to nearest tourist pathway point. We left our bikes near of small farm and we continue by foot. Route is marked with small colored sticks. Soon sticks dismissed and we must continue without them. I don't know if we reached some important or interesting tourist point, but before 11 PM we return down to place with our bikes. I have some problems with my glasses. Especially with "Heliovar" slides in them. They have special feature to darken in sun. But due to some for me unknown reason, they stay dark also there in dark. Sometimes it looks, that I must use my other sense to safely continue. After short rest we continue on bikes to our lake. I feel, that I need to wash myself, and I realized to do it in lake water. At first, water reach only my knees, but later I immerse all my body into water and I swim. Only here in Norway I become hardened my body under pressure. Later, Gabika and Olga, did the same. Before midnight we found some bottle with alcohol and we decided to make some fire. The bottle we empty soon and we realized to prepare some meal on fire. We didn't have no bacon neither sausages and we must improvise. As best solution we find out baked apples. They were really excellent and I can only recommend them. After singing some folk national songs we go to sleep. Motorcyclists had really bad night.

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My travels - Norway on Bike 1997 - 7.day

9.August 1997

Morning is for me really hard. Only very slowly I leave tent. Outside is strong wind and sun is hidden somewhere above dark clouds. I make decision to spend today in car. Other people want to make some easy route. On the "Eagle route" they are struggling their fight. Strong wind is dangerous enemy. I speak with Jaro about their conditions. It is not bad thing to spend some time in car, but from bike you can see much more. We stop near of Geiranger Fjord and we are looking on really colossal "Seven Sisters Waterfall". Later we continue with making photos on the best place for making photos in Norway. Peter found this excellent place, well known from all travel prospects, last year. Place is an overhang with excellent view on fjord. The point is that you don't know this, when you are staying there. You must also find right place for camera. Peter obtains all cameras and we together with Gabika's bike change to models. Of course, every camera is specific, and we must yawl on Peter instructions how to use it. This grotesque screams engage near tourists from France. They with consternation on faces look on strange couple of people screaming each other. I understand them, from their place is not possible to see this interesting view. At last we make one group photo on each camera. One from French tourists be a push-over for and go on Peter's place. With scream "Fiiiiii" (in french language of course), shortly he interprets others what it is all about. We are going to eat something, and French tourist repeat our previous activities. It is going to rain and we attach all bikes on car, and together we enter into car.

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With car we reach Dalsniba. Here we make some photos of near iceberg. Gabika with Lucia also tested their raincoats bought in Rostock. Later we continue to Stryn, where we visit local pub. I ordered some German beer there. After paying bill I was surprised with very high price. Alcohol in Norway is not very cheap. We build tents wildly, somewhere in near forest on footpath. We didn't have time to look for camping in this rainy weather. We also build tent bower, which we use as our kitchen. After eating, we play cards in one from tents together with Czech liqueur "Becherovka". Gabika together with Lucia present themselves as excellent masseuses. My eyes reveals me and in short time I sleep like a top.

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My travels - Norway on Bike 1997 - 6.day

8.August 1997

It is morning and I am going out from tent very slowly. All my body is weary of yesterday route. After a small time I feel more better and I decided to pass next route. Today we have prepared beautiful track to Trollstiegen (Troll way). After a few kilometers of easy ride I warm up. We are in beautiful valley. Place with promised gradient we didn't see and we are making hoots from Peter, that he surely he underestimate our abilities. This track is no problem for us. We stop and make some photos near of open-air museum. All way is bordered with marks "Attention troll". Weather is good, only sometimes in shadow it is a little bit cold. We force us with hot chocolate, to increase our energy on near parking place. At that time we didn't suspect, how much we will need this energy later. In short time, after first curve, we are surprised with unlucky view. We see very steep uprising in switchbacks to a far top of mountain. Only from this view our enthusiasm together with our jokes fly away. Peter had a true, unfortunately. I change my gearing on easiest degree and with speed of turtle I go to my first serpentine. It must be possible to do it. I only must save enough energy for next serpentines. And really it looks much more better, after first serpentine. It is possible to do it. Very slowly, but it is possible. With each serpentine my energy and enthusiasm decrease, but still I am able to continue with energy from my hidden backlog. Slowly I reach a bridge somewhere in half of our way up. Here is Jaro waiting us with hot coffee. I change my shirt because it is vet from my perspiration, and it is not very comfortable now. After changing it, and good coffee I feel better. I decide to continue but my legs don't want to continue. In my mind I order to my body to continue. Surrounding drivers greet us and are very regardful, especially in curves. Together with us they must be careful on sheeps and cows on road.

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Some time later we slowly reach an observation point on top. There I sit down on bench together with others. I did it at last. Gabika has legs in unbelievable cold water of small river "brrrrr", and other are eating and sunning. I am doing the same. After half hour rest we are going to observation point. In souvenirs shops around way there, are trolls of all sizes and shapes. This is the right place to buy troll at home. We also built our troll from stones for happiness. It is a difficult thing, because all stones are used for other trolls, and take stone from another troll means accident. We finally found enough free stones for our troll. Near of observation point are Japan filmmakers and they are recording advert on Subaru and some kind of tea. Actress in Norway national costume is drinking tea from pot with words "teaaaa" with smile on face. When she did it 20 times, she looks so bored from this role. We lean against barrier railing and take a pleasure in beautiful view down. Now we really see how difficult was our way up. Way was going up in steep long serpentines and its start is boundless. We make some photos for our families and friends in order that they can admire us for this performance. Then suddenly Jaro begin to hassle. He bought emblem with reindeer and he pinned him to peak of his cap. But cap unfortunately fall down 20 m under observation point with help of strong wind. Jaro without speculation skid down. And Peter everything record on camera. Terrain looks very dangerous and Jaro's way down looks very risky. Everybody on observation point is looking on this crazy man, but Jaro fortunately take his cap and he returned back without wounds. Our bikes stay abandoned near of our car. Here it is possible. We are careful only in big cities.
Slowly we sit on our bikes and we continue. We are near of top, and after it we have only meed in form of downhill run. But before we fight small snowball war on top only in shorts. After long downhill run we ship on ferry from Ligne to Eidsdal. There we have only a few kilometers to camping, but only now I understood what does it mean absolutely worn-down. My legs are stoned and only with enormous effort I reach our camp. Here I fall down to grass and long time I spend on ground without any move. Today it was heroic achievement, and I know that tomorrow will be very tough for me. Later I only sit on near stone and I write my letter to my ... Only my hand are able to move now. Our driver Jaro decide to make his own trip on bike. Peter is preparing meal and in short time we eat big serving of risotto. This day I went to sleep early, maybe before midnight. A spent some time to find good position for my painfull body and my eyes slowly fall down...

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